Lucien Gaillard: Hairpin (ca. 1904); Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.

This gorgeous hairpin was designed by Lucien Gaillard (1861-1942), one of the most celebrated jewelers in Paris around 1900. It is a perfect example of the Art Nouveau style, which was popular in the late 19th and early 20th century. The movement was strongly influenced by Japanese art and took its subjects mostly from nature. Organic, asymmetrical motifs replaced the stringent classicist standards imposed by the neo-styles that preceded it.
The pin represents two dragonflies fighting over a prey. Gaillard shows not only his craftsmanship and knowledge of materials with this beautifully executed piece of jewelry, but also his keen sense of balance. Combining translucent precious stones with semi-translucent wings and opaque bodies, he captured the fragility and lightness of the insects without compromising on artistic expression. The gently shimmering horn wings, the glossy enameled and golden bodies and the radiance of the citrine, emeralds and diamonds all complement and strengthen each other.
With this conscious effort to create harmony through the use of contrasts, Gaillard made a hairpin which is not just attractive at first sight, but stays intriguing on closer inspection.